Тerracotta and Faience tiles

Faience
Replacement of terracotta and faience tiles should start with removing old, if any, and surface preparation for bonding. Breaking the old terracotta and faience Plachka usually becomes a hammer and awl or a broken machine - Hilti, Kangal and others.
In wall paneling and floor tiles and old adhesive cleared to the concrete itself, in brick walls plastered with lime plaster - to plaster or wall not plastered before gluing tiles - then trimmed to wall brick. Warning - do all this in such a time as not disturbing the neighbors.
      Prior to initiation of bonding the tiles are soaked in water, and the wall or the floor is wetted thoroughly with a large brush.
     In rooms where placed floor tiles and faience, naturally starting from the floor, then the walls, respecting the extent possible joints of the floor and walls to match. To avoid this thing that is difficult to achieve, floor tiles can be rotated 45 degrees to the wall, ie to get a diamond order. When joints are parallel to the floor of the walls of the premises and glued tiles in two adjacent rooms, such as bathroom and hallway, the joint must be constantly going in both rooms without a kink to the door. This creates piperidin very nice view, especially when all the rooms in the apartment are covered with tiles.
     When placing tiles on the walls determines the height will reach far
and somewhere in the middle of each wall is placed plumb and vertical gap emerged. The order begins bottom - up and the vertical gap - the corners. In no case can not use the corner of the room to plummet. Vertical joints of adjacent walls must match in the corners, and this is often achieved by using plumb line and leveled. All vertical joints should be strictly vertical and horizontal - leveling the corners do not disagree.
    Tile adhesive is mixed in a container with water and stirred to obtain a homogeneous mixture. The mixture was allowed to settle and 5 minutes, and then stirred again.
It is applied with a notched trowel appropriate to the primed and clean base. The size of the teeth is determined according to the size of the plates to be glued. The plate is pressed tightly and rearranges to distribute the mixture over the surface.
     All tiles have to be equidistant from one another. Necessary adjustments are made with a rubber mallet. An equal amount of the joints is controlled by so-called "crosses". For larger sizes of plates, especially if they are of granite, it is recommended that the joints are wider - 4 to 4.5 mm, to accommodate any deformation at temperature differences. For drying of the adhesive takes 24 hours.
     After several days, the joints are filled with grout paste colored tiles suitable for color. The stores are sold separately grout paste and colors corresponding to the color of the tiles.
     With a clean damp cloth to clean the remnants of grout joints paste splashed out on the plates themselves. Later to shine tiles are wiped with a clean cloth or sponge soaked with vinegar-water solution.


Objectives of tiling
 Each supporting ground should be covered with a protective layer or tiled. When it is irrelevant whether it is a vertical basis, such as a wall or horizontal, as under. The lining must be seen as an aesthetic improvement of the construction element. Material and labor inputs are expensive, so it must be justified. Therefore lining area must perform one or several functions:
- Architectural design;
- Protection (eg water splashes);
- Need of Ravda purity (due to the flat surface);
In certain constructions goal can only be aesthetic design, most often, however, the architectural design and the protective function coincide. If you want only protect the surface, it should be done with tile cladding. Spend too much material and is expensive. The desired result can be achieved more effectively at walls with plaster or paint, while floors - with stucco.
What is the difference between the cladding tiles and tiling with other plates. The question boils down to the material. There are 5-7 mm glazed tiles lining the walls of 9-11 mm and most often unglazed tiles for flooring. There are also tiles clinker material, tile, slate, granite, marble, natural stone, concrete and others.


 Tiling and flooring outdoors
To cladding and flooring in the open put particular requirement - be weatherproof. The biggest enemies of a construction facility and its components are water and low temperatures. In combination, they can cause major damage, the elimination of which is often quite expensive. Most simply this can be explained as follows: If the surface of a building material is porous, fog or rain when the snow melts, it absorbs water. In physics classes this phenomenon is studied under the term "capillarity". When the temperature drops below zero degrees, the water in the capillaries (pores) freezes. With this and its volume increases. In the forming pressure it hammered layer by layer from the surface of the material and consequently its ability to absorb water increases.
Can draw the following conclusions:
- The selected material for lining or covering must be
cold-resistant. (Details can be found in the "Materials").
Water-repellent coating or flooring provides protection
weather. The term "water-repellent" should not be equated with "waterproof."
Facing glazed tiles is water repellent but not waterproof. It is not frost as the joints in the porous part of the plate (behind the glaze) can penetrate water and then glaze and will break off very easily. If you do outdoors facing with glazed tiles, will achieve little zamarsyaemost surface. You have the additional advantage that the rain washing the dirt.
When material lined with glazed facades ie external walls behind which are heated in the winter premises in the structure can produce hazardous areas. Following capillarity of the building material, relatively high air humidity in the inner premises penetrates the exterior walls where drop in temperatures can form condensation water. And if sashtestvova opportunity for evaporation and frost outside and penetrate to the wetted zone, leading to wrenching. Necessarily have to know that should not be lined facade of the house with tiles, if not foreseen in the project.
Outdoor are lined with glazed tiles not only walls, but also swimming pools, cascades and other water facilities. It also needs to use a cold-resistant material, and whereas the facing tile itself does not make a watertight basin. You have to make waterproof insulation.
Outdoor various tiles are used for making flooring, seating areas and paving paths and lanes. In these cases the choice of material must be aware of the following:
The surfaces of floors and paths is subjected to high pressure and must be particularly resistant to abrasion or must be selected hard dense material. Appropriate are granite, marble, granite, terrazzo, klingeritovi and natural stone slabs.
The surfaces of floors and pathways must be such as to ensure security against slipping. As outdoor often wet, this quality is given importance. Should not be used glazed, polished or glazed tiles. Most cases are suitable for tiles with profiled surface.
The upper part of walls, fences, pilasters, cornices and similar located outdoors must be protected from rain and snow. Make a single pitched or saddle cover. The task is to takes away from constructive detail rain water from melting snow. Consequently, the inclination of the panels the water flows along the bottom horizontal edge.
To previously mentioned sustainability requirements tile weather mliyaniya added and resistance to mechanical stress. Because if you do not have the necessary strength, issued 3 to 5 cm. The first plate can break when hit by falling branches or other mechanical influences. Therefore tiles for placement outdoors should be thick enough (at least 2 cm) to be able to withstand accidental impact.

Lining the walls
All types of tiles may be used for lining walls. The selection is determined by the purpose of the liner and of course your taste. Glazed wall tiles are the preferred material. It can achieve very good layout and they are most easily supported. They can be placed on walls that are not exposed to frost and kaeto of them will be influenced by chemical or mechanical means.
It can easily be inferred where it makes sense to do tiling tiles. First, in wet rooms, bathrooms, niches for shower and toilets, ie Everywhere should be expected splash walls can protect efficiently, are lined with ceramic tiles.
The kitchen is better to line the area around the stove, around desktop and sink. But remember "All too harmful"
Since the kitchen and bathroom have only a functional purpose, but in person they should also feel well, it needs to think about their aesthetic design. With the colors of the tiles with a matte or glossy surface, size, shape and placement they need to get the layout of the wall that you like and at the same time is in harmony with the rest of the room and furniture. For example, in the main bathroom facilities, bathtub, sink, toilet, bidet are mostly white. White suit all colors. Now the question is whether lockers for toiletries, mirror frame, the board of the toilet, toilet paper, etc. They must be the same color as the tile or not. However, if the basic facilities are already in one color, the color of the tiles must be in harmony with the other elements in the bathroom.
When using rectangular tiles need to gauge whether to put vertically or horizontally. In short or tight space put them horizontally. So it optically extended. In a particularly low room tiles should be placed vertically. In this way the room tends to be higher.
Many other considerations are important in putting the tiles, but the right choice will best affect your personal taste. Here I try to give some ideas.


You have chosen any longer wall tiles which will Incase. Decide now how you will attach them to the wall. The specialist says: "Tiles are post-vyat", hence the term "placement" of tiles. As repeatedly mentioned, it can do with mortar or glue.
1. Facing walls with tiles
With tiles are lined most walls. In determining the type of tile choice falls mainly on glazed tiles. You already know that they are of high quality material. So you advised to explore this section la not wasting material while it uses so la the quality of the lining does not diminish the merits of the tiles.

1.1. Choosing a method for bonding
Glue the tiles with adhesive is the simplest method of connecting them to the base. Saves material as per 1 sq.m. cladding consumes about 500 glue. In their application to mortar of the same area goes 20 to 25 l. Solution that requires 12.5 kilograms. 2 buckets of cement and sand. In the weight gets too big difference. Dried glue weighs about 1 m2 about 150 years, and used mortar weighs 48 kg. In sticking with glue all around it remains clean and stain with a solution very much. It not without significance is also the consideration that for placing tiles with mortar needed considerably more time. Now surely you will maintain that wherever possible, should be applied with adhesive bonding.
In many cases, however, this is not possible. Outdoors should not glue tile, because regardless of the plates themselves the base is frost.
In the bonding between the plate and the wall will always have cavities which are not filled with the adhesive. There will collect condensed water and rainwater penetrated. When water freezes, the tile will be removed from the base.
The surface of the substrate and the back of the tile must fit, i.e. the plate must fit fully to the base, because the adhesive is used only as a binder and is not able to equalize sufficiently smooth base or plate. Therefore tile you can stick only to healthy and equal basis. In all other cases should be handled with mortar. However, if you acquired skill in making plaster, then you can on an uneven wall to make smooth plaster. When the plaster dries, on it you can glue tile adhesive. The advantages of this method are not high. Preferably only by those who are afraid to put tiles solution.
Most often, the surface of a masonry wall is uneven. As precisely worked mason, smooth and flat surface is not obtained even given the differences in the structure of brick and mortar. If in reconstruction notice that the plaster has not retained the necessary hardness and strength, you will have to dislodge. Thus getting still raw wall.
Concrete walls can also be rough on them can not be sticky with glue. If the wall that will paneled, not vertical and must be balanced, it is also necessary to work with mortar.
From these examples it can be clearly understood that the mortar is used not only as a binder but also as a leveling table.
1.2. Preparatory work
The better you prepare your work, the more successful it will be.
1.2.1. Substrate
If the base is such that it can be glued tiles, then it needs very little preparation. If the wall is papered with distemper paint or wallpaper must be removed and the paint wash well. Oil paint does not need to be removed. Once healthy on it can be glued tiles.
So the area must be completely clean. If the base is very hygroscopic hygroscopicity, such as plaster walls, I recommend you go one hand very thin latex. If the wall you want to tiled with plaster, which is not flat and is not strong enough, you will have to dislodge. Cover previously well all items left in the room and close the door. When breaking off the plaster dust rises. From bricks must be removed all traces of mortar. Be particularly careful not to leave traces of gypsum. Masonry joints must be poizdalbayat, so that the new mortar well be secured. Then the wall was swept garbage were removed from the room.
With slat level and will check if the wall is vertical and flat. If everything is OK, you can do shotcrete mortar. Thus, the wall will have uniform absorbent surface - a prerequisite that mortar lining will connect to the base as soon as you press it to her. Before that will spray the wall with water so as to moisten well. Thus binds the remaining powder on the wall. If you fail to do this will create a lot of trouble, because the solution that will apply will be contacted only with dust, there is no connection with the base and will inevitably fall. At the same time will moisten somewhat too dry absorbent masonry. Wet wall will immediately absorb the water from the solution, which is necessary for the chemical bonding of the cement.
Make now grout at a ratio of 1: 4. The consistency should be fluid. On the wall is applied with a mason's trowel.
Attention! For plaster necessarily try to obtain masonry trowel. With all other instruments solution very difficult lashing so that it is evenly distributed on the wall, and to hold.
If in some places hold more solution must immediately bring down with a trowel. If you do not yet built and skills for this job will be difficult so to reapply plaster that does not drop any solution on the ground. Put the floor wide plank from which you can gather it and again to return to court.
Throwing mortar wall is an activity that is difficult to describe and you learn just a little exercise. At first take a trowel with less solution. Throwing it in a circular motion to the wall bottom. However handle of a trowel should not be clutches, it must be gently rotated in hand. The solution should not throw with force. Provide a that you only want to touch the wall. Do not despair if you fail the first time around and if ponapraskate if initially your pants stuck solution more than the wall.
If the wall has a large bumps, you will have to line up with plaster. In case tahav recommend you do a little thicker solution. To get a relatively smooth surface after application of the solution take rights or slat board, push it under the angle to the wall covered with a solution and move zigzag upwards. Smaknatiyat solution back in court. Thus prepared substrate should not run dry completely. Suffice solution is not soft to the touch. This will get better connect with the next layer solution. When working with mortar or concrete builders are guided by the rule: "Fresh on fresh hold on."
When finished plaster, clean well all around his instruments, and himself. If the cement has hardened, it can be dissolved with acid. Water in the bucket containing residues of cement. Do not pour them down the toilet or sink. Cement and sand are deposited into the first curve, even harden under water and clog the channel.
1.2.2. Processing tiles
If you incase only a small area of ​​the wall, in most cases you can do so using only whole tiles. Under the veneer of whole walls is difficult to avoid the use of parts of the tile.
In cutting the tile can rarely be used in both parts. So first check the quality of the tiles. Take those whose edges are crushed during transport and cut them you need parts. If the glaze has fine cracks, the plate is not suitable for processing. It will surely break along the cracks, not where you want. Cracks are so subtle you hardly visible. Hold the plate gently to corner her pochuknete with a hard object. If the sound is clear, the tile is durable and can be cut. If there are cracks in the glaze, in hammering issued thud. Such tiles should not be cut, they can be placed possibly a more closed position. When tiles with wet cracks, crevices and darken immediately are visible.
Mark off a glaze on the tile, not the reverse. Put it then on a rigid base, put the top ruler, triangle or line and keep them tightly with his left hand because they glaze on easy glide. It is best in line to stick a plaster over.
If you want to cut with a diamond, you must do all that the incision will go about 4 mm. from the line. Diamond or see spend by pressing once on the icing. Or walk a few times with a diamond glaze. Or the line will shift, or you will hold the tool bit different and will not get a clean edge.
Now grab the tile firmly with both hands and crushed. You can perceive the method of glassware. Place the plate on the table so that the marked place to coincide with the edge of the table. With one hand, push the plate to the table with the other chip off by pressing it down. However, if you have to cut a narrow strip that you can not get better, then help with cutting pliers. But did not tear off pieces and pinch portion of the incision site and then break off. Pieces will tear off only in tiny stripes, when you can not break. If cookies not well broke off, can doobraboti with pliers. In this manner is cut in a straight line. Cuts in the form of an arc and openings may only be made by breaking into pieces. This is significantly more difficult, and no special tools. So much simpler example to position the holes or gaps so that the holes for contacts and others. fall where cross two joints. Then it will be enough to breaking off the respective corners of four tiles to get the most simple way the desired hole in the liner.
If you nevertheless want to cut in the form of an arc or make a hole, get as much as possible closer cutters. Now start piece by piece, millimeter by millimeter tearing at the plate, but not along the scored line. First you have to remove all the "meat" and only then reaches the desired line. Irregularities on the cut surface that interfere are removed with pliers. Dip first plate with the cut in water, and then smooth the edges of the whetstone - only the glaze, not biscuit as kaolin only fill grindstone.
Before tiling, should once again check them and sort them by size.
Two slats made cross. The first plate is placed on the cross and dimensions make it notes.
If a different size, he also noted. All tiles of the same size are placed in a pile.
When placing the tiles from the bottom with the largest tile by making small gaps. Top plates become smaller and larger joints. The opposite is impossible.
Try from time to time to sweep and throw pieces scattered around. They remain on the floor could cause an accident. If kneel example on such a piece would be injured.
As we said at the beginning, with the joints between the tiles are intended to achieve and aesthetic effect. So before you start the actual work, you have to think how and where to deploy various joints. Refer to serious preparatory work for fugirovkata stands by the quality of lining. And the most beautiful tiles help when joints are distorted.
The most important rule you need to follow is the vertical joints are absolutely perpendicular to the horizontal. If this is not done, joints are shifted at the end of the line will have to place the wedge-shaped tiles.
In the differentiation of the liner along the height problems are less because normally works with whole tiles and the height of the cladding can be determined from them. However, if you have any restrictions on the height with which to comply, and the area can not be filled with whole tiles, you'd better order, which will be whole tile is at the bottom of the liner. A plinth below may well serve to equalize. Its height may be from 100 to 150 mm.
Parts for narrow rows should not be less than half a tile. If you do not have a lot of tiles, you can also use narrower strips - up to 50 mm. Smaller spoil the effect. They testify that plochkadzhiyata not think the layout of joints and has put the tiles as he had had at the moment. Horizontal and vertical segmentation of the lining has a golden rule: "The lining must be symmetrical." In symmetrical tiles are only two options. In the central axis of the area can be located or joint order of the plate, because symmetrically means to start from the middle and be distributed to uniformly in both directions. Non-target plates should be placed at the end of the line.
If the area is crossed by windows, doors, protruding parts or other items, then it should be divided vertically by extending the edges of the hole. Each of the thus obtained parts breaks down in the described manner. Can be obtained intersections of the lines where you should observe the following rules:
When the parts of the plates are accounted to each other, the size of one can be increased at the expense of the other.
- If there is eg a plate of 130 mm and one 100 mm, merge them into one whole by 150 mm and a 80 mm.
Parts of the tiles that fall to each other should be equally large. Thus, in the example shown would result in two bands of 115 mm. Parts of tiles that restrict any opening should be equally large and in no case less than half a tile. In this often have to compromise and this rule be read in conjunction with the next.
Parts of the tiles that are close to each other, should be equally large.
Sometimes you have to choose on which rule gave. It is then appropriate to make a small sketch or drawing. Not feature in scale smaller than 1: 10 will not be able to visually assess the effect of the stripes. The drawing will not be able to estimate the size of the tiles Sundays, as in 1:10 scale can not include trimilimetrovata gap. It needs to do calculations.
You should also specify the corner joints. They are always to only one wall. Thus, wall tiles 15 may have 14 or 16 joints, i.e. a more or less.
Example. One wall is 2.50 m long and the corner joints must not be included -sledovatelno a gap less than the number of tiles.
2500 mm, 153 mm = 16.34 Tile Tile
From this result it is clear that at 16 objectives plates were prepared two end plates of a plate of 0.17 for a total of 25.5 mm.Tozi embodiment will not perceive because so narrow strips are made difficult because the clean and with such distribution is not It achieves good optical effect. You should look for a new solution!
15 tiles. 153 mm for tile = 2295 mm h mm / joint / = 2292 mm
2500 mm - 2292 = 208 mm 2 in shell tiles fugue
208 mm: 2 = 104 mm - 3 mm / joint / = 101 mm
Thus, the two parts will be 100 mm.
One wall is 1.80 meters long. Corner joints must be involved.
1800 mm 153 mm plate ≥ 11,76 tiles, therefore
10 goals and two strips of 1.76 goals
10 tiles. 153 mm to 1530 mm plate = +3 mm / joint / = 1533 mm
1800 mm - 1533 mm = 267 mm
267 mm: 2 = 134 mm - 3 mm / joint / = 131 mm
So both in shell tiles will be of 130 mm.
I hope that from now on you can calculate all other cases.
Plochkadzhii Some are of the opinion that the areas to be arranged symmetrically with medium-narrow strip. A matter of taste! You have to set its own opinion.
When a corner, ie end of the wall will be closed from cabinet or from a pipeline, there may naturally hide what is not much to show. In the first example, we calculated that, you could put a 51 mm-wide tile in the indoor corner, then 16 goals tiles
Preferably, a wall cladding to the plinth is made regardless of whether the floor to be stood with plates or not. For the plinth is best to use Terracotta-tanning material, thus skirting the original terracotta tiles or floor tiles. The cap may be 100 to 150 mm high. The preferred height is 100 mm. Check whether the size of the tiles for wall match those of the socket. If fully fit, you can work with the same location of the joints, i. E. Each vertical joint passes without indentation in the wall socket.
Often terrazzo tiles are a little larger or smaller than the faience. Then the vertical joints can not cross the line. In this case, place the socket joint to cross the wall. This means that the vertical joints of the cap to touch the middle of the tiled wall. They will therefore be shifted by half a tile. This of course can be done by purely aesthetic considerations. Here aesthetic layout issues are solved in reverse order of performance. So first determine the location of the joints of the wall, and then those of the socket and back - first put tiles of the socket, then those on the wall.
In the same way as cross-joint socket can put in the following order of the lining of the wall. As the penultimate row often cross joint is placed and strip tiles 115 mm in another color. You would not recommend lined so the whole area - the picture becomes too dynamic.
Besides these examples there are other opportunities to shape beautiful lining. In monochrome lining you can turn a different color tiles, placing them messy. Even better effect you get if you use no goals, half colored tiles placed horizontally or vertically. If you have two colors tiles, then the individual areas can form a "mirror". With dark will make a framework that depending on the size of the wall can be as wide as one, two or three tiles. Bright tiles will be in square or rectangular frame. Rectangular "mirror", the long side of which is placed horizontally extended optically wall - so the room appears to be lower. The opposite effect occurs if the "mirror" be placed vertically.

I gave you some ideas for the design of the walls, which, however, is not required to run. Depending on your own personal tastes will pick the colors and arrange the tiles. If you can not imagine the effect of different combinations, then draw and paint or remove them from room table and chairs and tiled floor.
1.3. Placing tiles on the wall
First, determine the sequence of work in one room. If you need to only lined the walls, there is nothing much to comply starts upwards and usually tiles in a row are placed from left to right. Therefore, if you do socket, begin it.
When in the same room will be placed tile floor and walls, the flooring is made final. If you work in reverse order when placing the tiles on the wall floor will be dirty from falling mortar and should be frequently cleaned. Then, the tiles will inevitably gain a slight grayish tinge. Besides permanently will stand on more fresh screed and placing on it when the solution is not yet fully hardened.

It's done:
- A line of flooring next to the wall / while he is marking flooring /; on his plinth; - Top ranks of lining
Only when the walls are jointed and are ready to put floor tiles. If you do not want to start a line of flooring, then put it in the socket. Since you can not do it by eye, you will have height future flooring to place the bar on which to enter tiles. The height should be measured so that after removing the bar floor tiles can be inserted into the socket. It can be done "step" mortar. More simply and quickly became. Once the tiles are glued to the cap, the solution must be removed. At this stage he could no longer be used for another, thus wasting valuable building material.
1.3.1. Placing the tiles with mortar
In less than a stone or similar material will insert molding, as already mentioned, directly on the floor as the first line of the liner. The old buildings have wooden flooring. By retrofitting buildings often necessary to remove the plaster. If the skirt is well preserved, will play the role of the plinth, and he really was. Now it is especially important not to let behind sill drip water solution or later - in the lining of condensed moisture. There she will hardly dry. Sills and flooring will begin to rot or be zavadi dangerous housework sponge. Cut your strips of plastic or aluminum foil and dispersion adhesive glue them at an angle and on the masonry and the upper front edge of the sill.
If the liner should begin on a certain height from the floor to the first row to provide a temporary basis on which to stand. For this purpose, take a straight bar and fasten it to the wall with masonry hooks. If you do not have any, you can crash into the wall of ordinary steel hooks. The bar must be absolutely horizontal - check it with leveled, otherwise the joints are distorted and uneven.
Before placing the first tile, check again if the wall is vertical. If the top end it has stepped back below will start with a thin layer solution - at least 10 mm. Otherwise you will start with maximum thick -20 to 25 mm. If there were greater differences, they must already be aligned with the plaster. As a rule, the thickness of the lining must correspond to the thickness of the mortar - 15 to 20 mm.
When the liner will not reach the ceiling tiles of the last row are placed directly on the plaster. If the base is dry already, should again be dampened. On the reverse side of the tile usually keep fine dust. If you put raztnor and then tilt the plate, he will slide
on it, because it is related only to the dust, and not with the tile. So immerse her in a little water. The powder will wash and biscuits will be wet and will not take so quickly the water from the solution.
Way of working:
Take the plate with his left hand with the palm glaze. Gripping one edge with thumb and middle finger opposite -With. With your right hand grab a trowel and apply the solution on the back of the tile. Apply first thicker layer. From the middle of the plate takes a little of the solution, and shape the edges with a trowel obliquely. Thus you can easily press the tile to the wall, the solution will be evenly distributed in it in all directions. Tile slowly up from the thumb
upward and is pressed against the wall. If by pressing a hand is not obtained properly position the tile, tap it gently with a wooden handle of a trowel - do not use force, however. If the tile is more or less a solution than necessary, remove and re-apply solution. This will not happen often, because these skills need to be acquired. Short level will check if the plate is vertical, horizontal and coaxial.
It was left outer plate of the front row. Next, which will place is right outside. Attention! Just follow certain distance! It is best to make a measuring bar that is as much as possible lighter. It will mark the distance between the tiles, ie between joints. Then you can use it as a measure to determine the altitude. If the liner is wider than 4-5 plates and do not want to place each plate using a spirit level stretch between two steel driven into the wall plug cord, which passes about 1 mm to the top edge of the tiles. With it you can navigate intermediate tiles.
Before the next line, remove the string and pins. If behind
tile gaps, fill them carefully on top. Basic requirement for quality work is filling all voids behind the tiles. In the following lines must be careful to follow and horizontal joints.
Since then pressing her plate often slide down a bit more before you start sticking, you have to carve several spacers that temporarily place between the tiles in the horizontal joints. You need to interrupt work for more than an hour, rinse well made already lining if you want to later have many difficulties and trouble with cleaning.
If the joints was thrashed solution must scrape it off with a stick, as then, these gaps will be filled with another solution.
Upon placement of hangers, soap and more. note that they are much thicker than conventional plates and thus require less solution to fill the gap behind them. Such special parts should not only submerge in water before putting them but let them stood there for several minutes; otherwise they will suck all the water of the few solution behind the plate. Observe one important rule. Once in place and aligned, the tile can no longer be moved, i. E. Not to further tap. If the solution is already cured and you moved away the plate, it will separate from the solution and no longer able to connect to it will fall.
1.3.2. Gluing tile adhesive
They now recognize the conditions for fixing tiles with glue and broad preparatory work. Once you have considered how you will deploy and joints have calculated the width of non-target tile, you can draw the joints of the wall. Will save you work with a spirit level and string. And no, you can not influence the verticality and alignment. The position of the tiles is determined by the base, because, as you know, the adhesive can not flatten - it serves only to connect.
When you mark out joints on the wall, work precisely because already bonded cladding you can not fix. It is best to each line of Nasya with level - horizontally and vertically - to meet always at right angles. Using this method, you can visually evaluate the position of the joints before you're stuck on the tiles.
Depending on the composition of the adhesive plates must be pre-processed. If you use universal glue "duozan" or "hemizol" *, the tiles should be dry. Before applying the glue, clean the dust from the underside of the tile.
When using dispersion adhesive must, depending on the texture minute to check whether it is not better to dip the plate in water.
Best glue is applied to the plate with a spatula. Distribute it as much as possible with uniform thickness 1-2 mm. If it is not applied evenly, pressing will not change the situation. Behind the plate will remain voids. And if you ever decide to drill a hole in the wall plate will break and you will be faced with the unpleasant task of making repairs. In such cavities collected condensate whose effects already described.
Evenly distribute the adhesive will achieve by taking a piece of old, fine saw, about 20 cm long, with zigzag movements spend it with the teeth down the adhesive. Excess glue will bring down. If the adhesive does not harden very quickly, you can prepare up to 10 tiles in this way and put them on the table with icing down. So then you can break them free of deposits. When taping push plate to the base wiggle bit her in different directions and align it on the drawn lines leveled or string. Do not be afraid -plochkata will not fall. It can happen "swim", ie overthrowing a little down. Unlike placement with mortar here you can change the position of the plate while moving.
And in this work is not bad to place wooden spacers in the horizontal joints to stabilize the situation on the tile until the glue has hardened. Do not use matches, because they can not influence the width of the joint. With the wedge gap becomes greater, the deeper driving a wedge therein.
Keep a rag to remove the adhesive from the glaze, and to clean your fingers. When the glue has hardened, it becomes difficult. Instruments also have to constantly clean especially before the break.
No, joint lining in the day that you've done to you through the open joints the glue to dry.
2. cover walls with floor tiles

In this and the following sections will introduce you with problems and work processes that are new or that should be given particular attention. Yourselfer who wants to put only floor tiles and begin to read only from this page will acquire fragmentary knowledge.
There will also differentiate the use of glazed and unglazed tiles. Differences are you known from previous chapters.
2.1. Processing of floorboards
Cutting terrazzo tiles is naturally harder than faience. In tiles between glaze and biscuit there is a tension. Once cut thin layer of glaze, this tension is released and the porous biscuit can easily break.
You know the floorboard as a whole has a relatively dense structure. It can not be broken, must be broken.
Draw in pencil on the surface of the tile cutting line. Then sit back and put the tile on his left thigh. With his left hand to hold the chisel hard alloy cutting line, and right even knock on the chisel with the hammer after each shot move it to one millimeter. When you gain a little experience, it will be relatively fast. Once you have a few times so along a shear line, pay back plate and blade hammer hammer on the line until the tile split. The more acute the hammer, the easier and faster it goes the job. And here the first attempt will not be very successful, so the first exercises a defective plate. The fracture site must necessarily be sanded, as pre-dive in the water edge.
Again, I remember that from time to time sweep shattered pieces to prevent injuries. Small debris scattered on the floor during the processing of terrazzo tiles are particularly acute.


2.2. Laying of floor tiles
We will off the mosaic, as further will specifically talk about her /
The method for laying of floor tiles is one, because of the profiled back
large 150 x 150 mm tiles precludes be bonded with adhesive. Place as wall tiles.
You know that floor tiles have relatively dense structure and hence less hygroscopic. The mortar should not be too hard, but must contain much less water than the solution wallcoverings. Due to the weight of the tiles by placing them must work with wooden wedges.
If on unglazed tiles have remained remnants of mortar that can not be washed, will only help cleaning with acid. Buy hydrochloric acid and then diluted with water at a ratio of 1:10 or 1 part acid to 10 parts water. Do not use metal containers. The most suitable wood or glass. This dilute acid wash lining. Beware! Put your goggles and rubber gloves. Avoid contact of acid to the skin!
Stick wrap around cloth, tie it well, dip it in liquid and clean the lining with it. All this must be done quickly, then immediately rinse with extra water because the hydrochloric acid will flow in the joints and will begin to dissolve mortar behind the tiles. When washing water diluted
acid, so that it loses its activity.
I repeat: Hydrochloric acid corrodes clothes, skin irritation, and in no case should not fall into the eyes!
3. wall cladding with sliced ​​TILES
Splicing ceramic tiles are fairly rough, glazed and very persistent. The back of the tile allows their use only on a solution. Consider a layer thickness of at least 20 mm because it must be catching big bumps. For vertical and horizontal joints are not enough H mm, as the sizes of tiles big differences to be equalized. Keep in mind when determining the location of the joints. I recommend you an average width of 5 mm joints. If the liner will be exposed to aggressive materials, the requirement is to joints are 10 mm wide - so they will be much better to be sealed with a grouting trowel.
Follow Furthermore it several times rule for shaping space with rectangular tiles. Close premise optical repaid if the tiles are placed lengthwise. Put you on high, long and narrow space look higher. Outdoors, for example lining the cap family home can invent the most daring combinations clearance. Tiles placed cross joint, create a good effect. Cutting tiles becomes described in section 5.2.1. Way. In the arrangement should strive to use as much as possible less in shell tiles, as compared with faience tiles cutting Splicing requires much more effort. If there is no suitable grinder for grinding, serve with a piece of clinker brick.
As has often been said, sticking it with a solution.
Sliced ​​tiles are more hygroscopic than floor, therefore the solution may be more rare. Check experimentally if necessary before placing her plate to dip briefly in water. This depends on the preservation of the tiles and the season. After completion of the work for the day around-deep well joints to allow enough room for the solution for grouting.
4. Filler and further processing of lining
In order to stand well joints, their color should always contrasts with the color of the tiles. Dark tiles should be grouted with cement, plaster or marble white cement. Bright tiles are grouted with port lashshtiment. If you want joints to uses other color, not white or dark green marble to plaster or cement you can add some mineral dye. The solution for the jointing of cladding joint width of 5 mm is a mixture of a binder and water. Get your mug in a thick porridge from the corresponding binder and water. Then moisten again well lining. You can sprinkle or to go with a wet sponge. If you do not do this, the liner will drain too quickly water from the solution and the gaps will be filled only superficially.
Now with a rubber spatula or sponge take the solution and spread on the liner / cross diagonally across the joints /. From time to time you dip the sponge in water. You will see clearly how to fill the gaps. Finally, rub a little harder not to swell the joints. If necessary, continue with the solution and in the direction of the joints.
In this work put rubber gloves, because cement strongly irritates the skin.
The tiles absorb water very quickly from the solution, thus joints quickly harden. Immediately after hardening you carefully wash the liner with a sponge and clean water. Once dry, take a soft cloth and buff glaze. In the corners hard to clean grout with a sponge. There must help with spatula.
Finishes having the width of the joint more than 5 mm must be grouted with a special trowel.
5. USE OF OTHER PLATES
It is mainly for clinker and mosaic tiles for natural stone slabs and plain concrete. Processing becomes generally with a hammer as you can with a sharp tip. Place necessarily on the mortar as described above. Because they are relatively heavy, must have a stable bearing surface, i.e. the space between the plate and the base is completely filled. The solution glue is applied to the base and then paving carving of joints to a depth of 10 mm. Work with an average width of the gap of 10 mm.
Grouting it with cement mortar-mix of cement and sand in the ratio 1: 1. Do not put a lot of water, you need a pretty thick solution. Put a trowel solution on the float. With a trowel for grouting take less than a trowel and fill the joints. Top-of-tuck to the solution, and then smoothed. This is also a job that you will not succeed in the first time and to be practicing.
Cleaning / washing / natural ways of tiling is done before Fu-ligation, because otherwise it will wash solution from the joints. Therefore, when grouting try not to contaminate the lining. '